When JT Bø announced his retirement on January 18th 2025, I did what any self-respecting sports fanatic would do: I booked tickets to Oslo faster than you can say “ski wax”.
Grit Meets Precision
Biathlon is a sport of beautiful contradictions—equal parts of endurance and finesse, adrenaline and Zen. Athletes ski across hilly cross-country tracks, hearts pounding, only to stop and steady their breath for precision rifle shooting. Miss a shot, and it’s off to the penalty loop, a humbling 150-metre reminder that even the steadiest hands can falter.
Originally a survival skill in the snowy forests of Scandinavia, biathlon evolved from military exercises into a competitive sport. Its debut at the Winter Olympics took place in 1960. And if biathlon had a spiritual home, it would be Norway. The country boasts a rich legacy, with athletes in every era dominating world championships and Olympic podiums. The Bø brothers, Johannes and Tarjei, are two of many Norwegian stars who’ve helped shape the sport into what it is today: a national obsession and a global spectacle. At Holmenkollen, biathlon isn’t just a weekend event—it’s a celebration of heritage, endurance, and winter sports magic.
Norwegian Biathlon Royalty
Johannes Thingnes Bø and Tarjei Bø are not just brothers—they’re legends in the world of biathlon. Hailing from the small town of Stryn in western Norway, the duo has been on the biathlon circuit for over a decade, bringing both grit and charm to the sport.
Tarjei, the elder, burst onto the scene in 2010 and quickly made his mark by winning the overall World Cup in his debut full season. Johannes, often called JT, followed a few years later and has since become one of the most dominant biathletes in history, with multiple World Championship titles, Olympic golds, and overall World Cup globes to his name. He had a jaw-droppingly amazing season in 2022/2023.
Together, the Bø brothers have brought an incredible energy and charisma to biathlon. Their rivalry is playful, their teamwork inspiring, and their presence on the tracks has helped elevate biathlon’s popularity both in Norway and beyond.
Booking Blunders
When JT Bø announced his retirement on January 18th 2025, I did what any self-respecting sports fanatic would do: I booked tickets to Oslo faster than you can say “ski wax”. By 9 PM that evening, flights were paid for, accommodations were… well, let’s just say “in progress”, and my excitement was snowballing. A week later, when his older brother Tarjei also declared his upcoming retirement, I felt like I’d hit the biathlon jackpot. Witnessing their final races at Holmenkollen was now not just a trip—it was a mission.
Fast-forward to February 22nd. I received a peculiar email asking how I enjoyed my stay at Scandic Holmenkollen Park. Confused, I realised I’d booked our room for February instead of March. This is how you lose a beautiful room with a beautiful view down to the bay and the city of Oslo. The hotel was, of course, fully booked for our actual travel dates, leaving us momentarily homeless. But every cloud has a silver lining—or in this case, an AirBnB. We found a cosy homestay, and the original hotel booking became a lesson in double-checking dates.
The Journey Begins
The adventure begins at 6 AM on March 21st with a wake-up alarm and a rush of work before heading to Tallinn Airport. The flight to Oslo is uneventful, except for the usual aerial views: snow-covered Baltic Sea, sunny archipelagos and majestic Norwegian mountains rising in the distance. The plane is packed with sport fans, recognizable by their attire and little Estonian flags.
Train, Subway, and the Scent of Adventure
Upon landing, we need to get from the airport to Oslo Central Station. While express trains are available, we opt for the regular service— it’s cheaper and only 10 minutes slower. The train ride is a sensory experience: the peculiar smell at the airport station and the herring aroma in the train.
From Oslo S, we transfer to the subway heading to Holmenkollen. The ride uphill is scenic, with the announcement “dørene lukkes” (“doors are closing”) becoming our new favourite phrase. Surprisingly, the train is nearly empty. Where are the anticipated crowds?
Where Legends Race and Fans Rejoice
Arriving at Holmenkollen, we purchase tickets at a kiosk and make our way to the stadium. The atmosphere is electric, though not as crowded as expected. We missed the men’s sprint, including JTB’s last victory, but catch the women’s race, basking in the sunshine and the thrill of the competition.
I stand there and look down at the stadium, the ski jump tower on the left, the shooting range on the right —everything seems familiar and yet so new. The athletes, who we meet every weekend on TV, seem like old friends. The view from our spot on Haugen is decent, and later, lying on the raincoat in the sun feels like a Nordic beach day.
Dreams (and legs) go uphill
Holmenkollen isn’t just a ski venue—it’s a vibe. Perched above Oslo like a Nordic crown, it’s where sleek, wood-clad homes peek through pine trees and the air smells permanently of wealth and class. The streets wind uphill past postcard-perfect houses, each with a garage tucked neatly into a hillside and skis leaning against the porch like it’s just part of the decor. Locals here don’t only like winter—they practically invented it. And this is where Olympic champions train, where families spend Sundays cross-country skiing, and where even the tiniest toddlers wear wool underlayers like it’s a birthright.
You should be in quite a good shape, though, to conquer the streets walking uphill. Joggers passing by make it look easy but believe me, it isn’t so. Luckily, there are plenty of stunning views to admire and pretend that you are not just standing there all breathless.
Breakfast with the Moomins and More Biathlon
The next morning, we are greeted with coffee served in Moomin mugs—a whimsical touch that warm my heart. Norwegian breakfast which include their famous brunost (brown cheese) is enjoyed on a sunlit terrace, a luxury we rarely afford ourselves at home.
Determined to make the most of our day, we tackle the uphill journey to the ski stadium, embracing Google Maps’ suggested shortcuts. The effort pays off with the time saved and scenic panoramic views. Saturday’s races are busier, and we get to experience the energetic feeling at Kapellskogen by standing near the track. Close enough to high-five the athletes—if only they’d slow down. JTB finishes second today.
Final Farewells and Reflections
Sunday brings the anticipated crowds. The procession from the subway station to the ski stadium is a sea of national flags, jingling cowbells, and camaraderie. We settle under the pine trees near a challenging uphill section at Haugen. Sitting on the ground among other biathlon fans like little Norwegian trolls. Everyone gets up like one man as soon as the athletes approach. “Heia, Norge!” echoes the loudest over the forests and hills.
As the final races conclude, we watch the Bø brothers’ retirement ceremony on the big screen, emotions running high. Reflecting on the weekend, we realise that while better seats on the main stand might have offered a closer view, the experiences, mishaps, and memories made the trip unforgettable.
Home awaits
With the races, the season, and the careers over, we face the reality and join the masses heading back to Oslo Central Station. This time opting for the express train to the airport, just for the experience, we appreciate the comfort after hours of standing and walking. Our final night is spent at the Radisson hotel near the airport, indulging in Asian cuisine, Norwegian waffles and reminiscing about our adventure.
The flight home is smooth, and by Monday, I am back at my desk, the weekend feeling both fleeting and monumental. Three days pass in a blur, yet the memories last a lifetime.
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Tips & recommendations
- Double-Check Your Bookings: Ensure your accommodation dates align with your travel plans to avoid last-minute scrambles.
- Embrace Public Transport: Oslo’s subway system is efficient and offers scenic routes, especially the ride to Holmenkollen.
- Pack for All Weather: March in Oslo can be unpredictable. Layers are your best friend.
- Engage with Locals: Norwegians are friendly and helpful. Don’t hesitate to ask for directions or recommendations.
- Savour the Experience: Whether it’s Moomin mugs or Norwegian waffles, it’s the little moments that make the journey memorable.
- Race Day: Arrive early, otherwise it will be difficult to find a good spot to cheer on the athletes. Bring a water bottle or a thermos with hot drink, sitting pad, sunglasses and sunscreen, and your national flag.
- Explore the arena: here.
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This article is a tribute to the Bø brothers and the unforgettable experience of witnessing their final races. For more information on visiting Holmenkollen, check out the official Visit Oslo website.
